JZA80 Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
Guide
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Below is a simple to follow guide on
replacing a rear wheel bearing on a JZA80 Supra. This article assumes
you have already removed the carrier assembly from the car following the
Toyota Repair Manual instructions. You will need the following tools to
complete this procedure. Hard
mounted vice - I used a 150mm vice.
Soft jaws for vice, or 2 pieces of timber to act as soft jaws.
Press, a 10 Ton press should do, I used a 20 Ton press and it was more
than adequate, should you not have a press, you will need access to
somebody with a press to press out the old bearing and press in the new
bearing along with the hub into the carrier.
Various SST's or custom spacers, 89mm OD x 4.2mm (Wall thickness) x
100mm length, 110mm OD x 20mm, 60mm OD x 20mm, 90mm OD x 5mm, 81mm x
5mm, 90mm OD x 30mm.
Cold Chisel - I used a 20mm Cold Chisel for removal of the Dust
Deflector.
Rubber Mallet
Ball Peen hammer or similar
WD40 or similar
14mm Hex Drive Socket
Slide Hammer along with nuts to hold the hammer onto the wheel studs in
the hub.
Seal Puller, but if you don't have one, a large flat bladed screw driver
will also work for removal of the seals with a bit of patience and care.
Larger snap ring pliers
Gear/Bearing Puller - 1 ton minimum.
Multi purpose grease - I use Nulon Extreme Performance grease
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Start by mounting the carrier assembly in a vice – I
used a 150mm vice and 2 blocks of timber to protect the carrier
assembly.
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Once securely mounted, using a slide hammer, remove
the hub from the carrier.
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Carrier with hub and backing plate removed.
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Whilst the carrier is still mounted in the vice, using a large pair
of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring – put the snap ring aside
as this is a re-usable part and does not require replacement unless
you have damaged it whilst removing it.
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Removed hub, with outer seal and inside inner race still attached.
The outer seal does not always come out of the carrier with the
removal of the hub.
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Once removed, mount the hub in a vice that’s fitted with soft jaws
or use timber to stop the vice damaging the hub.
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Here is where a good gear puller is required, using the Toyota SST
or a bearing/seal installing plate, mount the puller and
install a G or H clamp over the legs of the puller to keep the
pullers legs firmly in place under the inner race.
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Begin winding the puller clockwise so the inner race is pulled
upward and eventually off the hub shaft.
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Once the inner race has separated from the hub shaft, remove the G/H
Clamp and the puller, lift off the inner race along with the outer
seal which may or may not have come off when the hub was pulled from
the carrier and remove the SST/Bearing plate.
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Below is the hub with the inner race removed, wipe off all traces of
old grease, and give the hub shaft a light spray with WD40 or
similar.
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Inner race removed and cleaned for display purposes. Discard this
race along with the rest of the old bearing as it serves no purpose
except as a paper weight.
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Now that the hub
has been removed along with the inner race and outer seal and the
hub is clean, place it aside and cover it with a clean rag. Now we
remove the bearing assembly, outer race, deflector and inner seal.
If the outer seal has not come out of the carrier
when removing the hub, remove it using a seal puller or carefully
using a large flat bladed screw driver and a hammer. It is always
best to do this whilst the carrier is still in the vice. Remove the
carrier from the vice and remount it as below, using soft jaws on
the vice or timber to stop the carrier being damaged by the vice. |
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There are 2 ways of removing the dust deflector, the first method
involves using a cold chisel and a hammer, carefully tap
upwards around the
outer lip until the dust deflector is pushed out of the
carrier, this allows the dust deflector to be re-used should you
find the new replacement price from Toyota to be offensive. The
Toyota repair manual notes this is a single use only part – the
choice is up to you. The second method is quicker, and requires
hitting the outer edges of the deflector inwards, crushing it until
it pops out of the carrier – this method destroys the dust deflector
good and proper. |
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Once the deflector is removed, remove the inner seal using a seal
puller or carefully using a large flat bladed screw driver and a
hammer. |
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Here is where a press is required, I used a 20 ton press which was
overkill, a 10 ton press should be sufficient. Place the hub between
the bending plates as shown below. If you don’t want the bearing to
go falling to the floor place a bucket or clamp a piece of timber
onto the press underneath the carrier to catch the bearing and the
bearing plate that is used to push out the bearing. |
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Take your time, making sure the carrier is aligned centrally to the
press ram, continuing to lower the press ram until the bearing is
eventually forced out of the carrier. Discard the bearing and the
outside inner race that may still be in the bearing. It is not
uncommon for the outside inner race to fall out once the deflector
and the inner seal is removed. |
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Below is the carrier once the bearing
has been pressed out |
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Give the carrier a good scrub with degreaser, rinsing it off with
hot water and drying it with a clean rag. You will need either the
Toyota SST or short length of steam pipe. I used a piece of 89mm OD
x 4.2mm steam pipe,
100mm in length. Mount the carrier onto the SST or steam pipe and
make sure a bending bar is underneath the SST/pipe. Place the new
bearing into the carrier along with the SST or a bearing installer
plate onto of the bearing, align the bearing central to the press
ram and slowly press the new bearing in to the carrier until the
bearing is completely seated inside the carrier. |
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New bearing is installed, now it’s time to install the snap ring and
outer seal. |
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Install the snap
ring using a large pair of snap ring pliers |
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Install the outer
seal using a seal/bearing installing plate and a hammer so the seal
is flush with the carrier as seen below. Take your time so you do
not damage the seal or hammer it in too far. Once installed coat MP
grease around the lip of the seal. This seal requires an 90mm OD
bearing/seal installing plate to install. |
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Install the backing
plate using the hexagon bolt to hold it in place. Place the hub onto
either the SST or a piece of solid round bar, 90mm OD x 30mm. Placing
the carrier on top of the hub as below, insert the outer inner race
if it has previously fallen out, and using an SST or a bearing
installing plate, align the assembly central to the press ram and
press the carrier onto the hub. |
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Using a bearing/seal installing plate, carefully hammer the inner
seal into place – it can only go so far, once installed inspect it
to make sure it’s installed evenly. Once installed coat MP grease
around the lip of the seal.
This seal requires an 81mm OD bearing/seal installing plate to
install. |
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Using the same SST
or round bar that you used to install the hub into the carrier,
remount the carrier assembly into the press and place the dust
deflector onto the inside of the carrier. Make sure the hole of the
dust deflector is in alignment with the ABS speed sensor hole in the
carrier. Using either the SST or a piece of solid round bar (110mm
diameter x 20mm thick) align the assembly central to the press ram
and carefully press the dust deflector into the carrier – take your
time here, you need very little pressure from the press, too much
and I’d say you’ll crush the dust deflector and be up for another
one. |
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And that’s it, you
can now re-install the carrier assembly back into your JZA80. |
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Article written by Jon Stenner,
Photography by Jon Stenner. |
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